南极3D：在边缘 Antarctica 3D: On the Edge(EN)Subtitles
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1 00:01:05 Antarcticalives in our imagination
2 00:01:09 as the most remote,
3 00:01:11 the most forbidding,
4 00:01:13 the coldest placeon planet earth.
5 00:01:38 Though it appears to betough and invulnerable,
6 00:01:45 sheathed in ice andsurrounded by frozen ocean,
7 00:02:09 the Southern continentcan also be a fragile place.
8 00:02:14 Backlit by spectacular24-hour sunlight,
9 00:02:23 surrounded by thekind of sculpture
10 00:02:26 only nature can produce.
11 00:02:35 Locked up and buriedin the antarctic ice,
12 00:02:38 three miles at its thickest,
13 00:02:42 are clues to the planet'sfuture health.
14 00:02:47 Join us as we travelto a storied land
15 00:02:50 veiled by ice and mystery.
16 00:03:29 Writer and filmmakerJon bowermaster's
17 00:03:31 introduction toAntarctica in 1989
18 00:03:35 was also his first assignmentfor national geographic.
19 00:03:39 Jon bowermasteri that 220 day,
20 00:03:41 3,741 mile expedition
21 00:03:45 was the longest inantarctic history.
22 00:03:48 It was organized by twomodern day polar legends,
23 00:03:51 American will steger
24 00:03:52 and frenchmanJean-Louis etienne.
25 00:03:55 It focused attentionon the frozen continent
26 00:03:57 at an importantmoment in history,
27 00:04:00 when the treaty that governsit was being renegotiated.
28 00:04:03 It was also the last expeditionon the continent by dogsled.
29 00:04:10 I have been toAntarctica many times,
30 00:04:12 to both its high cold interior
31 00:04:15 and along its900-mile peninsula,
32 00:04:18 traveling bysailboat and kayak.
33 00:04:21 My goal has been to bringback eyewitness reports
34 00:04:24 of how Antarcticais faring today.
35 00:04:34 My 10-person team and I sailfrom the tip of south America
36 00:04:38 to the antarctic peninsula ona 74-foot ice-worthy sailboat.
37 00:04:43 The crossing of the Drakepassage takes five days.
38 00:04:51 It is renowned as one ofthe windiest places on earth,
39 00:04:54 and the seas canwhip to 40 feet.
40 00:05:01 The water temperaturehere is 29 degrees.
41 00:05:04 Fall in and you'd havejust a few minutes to live.
42 00:05:11 You knowyou're nearing Antarctica
43 00:05:13 when you spyyour first iceberg,
44 00:05:15 the continent'smost unique creations.
45 00:05:23 Carved offcenturies-old glaciers
46 00:05:26 they can be as bigas small islands,
47 00:05:29 20, 30 miles or longer.
48 00:05:41 The most impressiveare ghostly blue.
49 00:05:47 But you're onlyseeing the tip,
50 00:05:50 since 90% of an iceberg existsbelow the ocean's surface.
51 00:06:09 No one goes to Antarcticawithout careful consideration.
52 00:06:13 If you get introuble down here,
53 00:06:15 you must be ableto rescue yourself.
54 00:06:18 There is no Navyor coast guard.
55 00:06:20 No 911 to call.
56 00:06:23 So I choose my travelcompanions carefully.
57 00:06:29 Skip novak, American born,based in South Africa,
58 00:06:33 has been sailing to the antarcticpeninsula for 20 years.
59 00:06:37 Competitor in severalaround-the-world sailing races,
60 00:06:40 he knows the peninsulaas well as anyone alive.
61 00:06:49 Graham Charles is one of newZealand's best-known adventurers.
62 00:06:52 His reputation was earned bybold exploits by kayak
63 00:06:56 on some of the coldestseas on the planet.
64 00:07:34 The biggest adventuresto be had along the peninsula
65 00:07:37 are by sea kayak.
66 00:07:57 It is perhaps the best wayto see this part of the world,
67 00:08:00 because you're separated from theenvironment by less than an inch of plastic
68 00:08:05 and Antarctica really has a good shotat showing you what it's made of.
69 00:08:38 But Antarctica has not alwaysbeen about cold and ice.
70 00:08:43 It makes me think that cluesto the continent's future
71 00:08:47 may lie in its past.
72 00:08:54 More than200 million years ago,
73 00:08:57 the land beneathall of today's ice
74 00:08:59 was part of a supercontinentknown as gondwanaland.
75 00:09:04 The landmass that wouldeventually become Antarctica
76 00:09:07 broke off from south Americaand South Africa
77 00:09:10 and slowly drifted to itscurrent home at the south pole.
78 00:09:20 Not so long ago ingeological terms,
79 00:09:23 about one hundredmillion years ago,
80 00:09:26 Antarctica was coveredby tropical rainforest.
81 00:09:31 It was home to dinosaursthat could see in the dark.
82 00:09:35 Necessary, since the continent is bathedin darkness more than half the year.
83 00:09:44 And the earlyrelatives of penguins,
84 00:09:46 which grew to sixfeet tall and could fly.
85 00:10:00 As the earth continuedto revolve and evolve,
86 00:10:05 about 45 million years ago,
87 00:10:08 the continentbegan to grow colder,
88 00:10:24 ultimately becoming hometo most of the planet's ice.
89 00:10:42 Today, it is a hugekingdom of ice.
90 00:10:48 The United States could easilyfit inside its borders.
91 00:10:57 Like a giant ice cube fixedat the bottom of the world,
92 00:11:01 the frozen continent
93 00:11:03 ultimately helps set the tempoof the planet's weather.
94 00:11:13 Earth's greatannual climate cycle
95 00:11:16 is centered here.
96 00:11:19 With Antarcticaserving as the engine
97 00:11:22 that drives the circulationof ocean currents,
98 00:11:26 redistributes the sun's heat,
99 00:11:29 and regulates global climate.
100 00:11:42 During its eightmonths of winter,
101 00:11:44 the continent doubles in size,
102 00:11:46 as seven millionsquare miles of ocean
103 00:11:49 freeze around its edges.
104 00:11:56 Each Southern summer, muchof that ice begins to thaw,
105 00:12:00 breaks off and drifts away.
106 00:12:04 This annual growingand shrinking
107 00:12:07 acts like a pump,
108 00:12:09 turning Antarctica intothe planet's beating heart.
109 00:12:30 It's hard to imaginethe vastness of all that ice.
110 00:12:35 The ice sheet frozenatop the continent
111 00:12:38 contains 61% of all thefreshwater on the planet.
112 00:12:45 Much of its interior isoff-limits to man or animal
113 00:12:49 because of the coldand remoteness.
114 00:12:54 How cold?
115 00:12:57 The coldesttemperature on earth
116 00:12:59 was recently recorded on a highplateau in eastern Antarctica,
117 00:13:03 135.8 degrees below zero.
118 00:13:11 There's no wildlifein the interior of Antarctica
119 00:13:15 because there is no food.
120 00:13:18 But along the edges of thecontinent, it's a different story.
121 00:13:38 More than 14 million penguinscall Antarctica home.
122 00:13:56 As do many millions of seals,
123 00:14:05 and 15 species of whales,
124 00:14:07 including humpbacks, minkes, orcasand blues,
125 00:14:14 and the tinyall-important krill
126 00:14:17 that are the basis ofthe food chain here.
127 00:14:25 Graham and I spent many daysexploring the coastline by zodiac and kayak,
128 00:14:30 scouting for wildlife,hoping for an up-close look.
129 00:15:17 We spy plenty of penguins, whichnever cease to entertain,
130 00:15:21 whether on landor in the water.
131 00:15:30 Thousand-pound leopard sealspay us little attention.
132 00:15:40 Near the top ofthe food chain,
133 00:15:42 they rest unperturbedon floating chunks of ice,
134 00:15:45 rolling over only to yawn.
135 00:15:56 Jon and histeam's curiosity about
136 00:15:59 and desire toexplore Antarctica
137 00:16:01 put them in good company.
138 00:16:05 The icy continentand its mysteries
139 00:16:07 fascinated some of the greatestnames in exploration history.
140 00:16:13 This corner of the planet
141 00:16:15 was among the last placesto be discovered by man.
142 00:16:19 As sailors firstroamed the globe,
143 00:16:21 they would occasionally spy icebergsin the deep Southern reaches,
144 00:16:25 suggesting there was a frozenland down there, somewhere.
145 00:16:35 In 1773, captain James cook
146 00:16:38 was the first to sailacross the antarctic circle,
147 00:16:41 though he neveractually saw land.
148 00:16:48 It wasn't until 1820,
149 00:16:50 when three expeditions,
150 00:16:51 Russian, American and British
151 00:16:54 claimed to be the first to layeyes on the icy continent
152 00:16:57 within a few monthsof each other.
153 00:17:02 The very next year,
154 00:17:04 the first man steppedfoot on antarctic ice,
155 00:17:07 an American sealhunter named John Davis.
156 00:17:15 What is now known as the heroicage of antarctic exploration
157 00:17:19 didn't get underway untildecades later, in the 1890's.
158 00:17:25 The years that followed madehousehold names of explorers like
159 00:17:28 Ernest shackleton,
160 00:17:30 whose endurance wascrushed in the ice,
161 00:17:33 all of his men surviving anarduous eighteen-month odyssey.
162 00:17:38 Australian Douglas mawson,
163 00:17:41 who had almost been the firstto reach the south pole,
164 00:17:44 barely struggling back to safetyduring a later expedition
165 00:17:47 after losing his twopartners along the way.
166 00:17:52 And Norwegian roald amundsen,
167 00:17:55 who in 1912,
168 00:17:56 became the first to reachthe south pole by dogsled.
169 00:18:02 In an ill-fatedrace that same year,
170 00:18:05 englishman Robert f. Scott
171 00:18:07 also attempted toreach the south pole,
172 00:18:09 first using horses,then by ski.
173 00:18:14 Tragically, the cold and iceconspired against Scott
174 00:18:17 and four of his teammates, who alldied on the return from the pole.
175 00:18:27 Another kind ofantarctic explorer
176 00:18:29 began arriving inthe late eighteenth century.
177 00:18:33 These were hunters seekingseal furs and whale oil,
178 00:18:38 both then easy to find allalong the antarctic peninsula.
179 00:18:47 Inside the caldera of a long dormantvolcano on deception island,
180 00:18:53 whalers set up sophisticatedprocessing plants
181 00:18:56 for reducing blubber to oil,
182 00:18:58 and packing it in barrels tobe shipped back to Europe,
183 00:19:01 the United States and Russia.
184 00:19:07 At one time, hundreds of menworked on these beaches,
185 00:19:12 in wooden buildings,
186 00:19:14 and ships anchoredin the shallow waters.
187 00:19:24 Today, the one-of-a-kind internationaltreaty that governs Antarctica
188 00:19:29 forbids huntingof any species.
189 00:19:32 The agreement,signed by 48 nations,
190 00:19:35 was first adopted in 1961.
191 00:19:41 It commits all ofAntarctica to science,
192 00:19:45 and states therecan be no prospecting
193 00:19:47 for fossil fuelsand precious minerals
194 00:19:50 or any military activity.
195 00:19:56 This commitment to science
196 00:19:58 brings several thousandresearchers each summer.
197 00:20:03 There are 70 scientific bases,
198 00:20:05 administered by 30different countries.
199 00:20:10 The U.S. base, called McMurdo,
200 00:20:13 is the largestscience station.
201 00:20:17 During the summer months,it is home to more than 1500,
202 00:20:21 turning it into the planet'smost remote small town.
203 00:20:38 It is a trulyinternational scene.
204 00:20:41 The U.S. operatesthe base at the south pole
205 00:20:45 while the Argentineans overseeAntarctica's oldest base.
206 00:20:49 And the Chinese recentlyopened its newest.
207 00:20:57 In an isolatedcove along the peninsula,
208 00:20:59 we sail into the U.S.'sPalmer station,
209 00:21:02 home to just 60 scientists and staffat the height of the summer season.
210 00:21:16 Each November, a handful of researchersand support crew are dropped off by boat.
211 00:21:22 And picked up again in march.
212 00:21:33 Kim Bernard studies krill,
213 00:21:35 the fingernail-sizedcrustaceans
214 00:21:37 that are the basis of thefood chain in Antarctica.
215 00:21:42 Which requiresventuring out onto the sea
216 00:21:45 in all kinds of conditions.
217 00:21:54 Travis miles and his teamfrom rutgers university
218 00:21:58 deploy this self-propelled submarine intothe deepest parts of the Southern ocean,
219 00:22:02 where it collects samplesof seawater and krill.
220 00:22:10 Bill Fraser has been coming toPalmer for more than 30 years,
221 00:22:14 and is regardedone of the world's
222 00:22:16 most knowledgeablepenguin scientists.
223 00:22:20 In recent years,
224 00:22:22 he's been focused on how thecontinent's penguin populations
225 00:22:25 have been impactedby warming temperatures.
226 00:22:53 Several speciesof penguins live along its edge,
227 00:22:57 including gentoos,
228 00:23:00 adélies,
229 00:23:02 emperors,
230 00:23:04 and chinstraps.
231 00:23:16 In one of the clearestexamples of how
232 00:23:19 warming temperaturesare impacting the continent,
233 00:23:22 the numbers of certainspecies are shifting.
234 00:23:26 Emperors areconsidered threatened.
235 00:23:28 Chinstrap populationshave declined,
236 00:23:31 and gentoos are on the rise.
237 00:23:34 Along the peninsula,
238 00:23:36 where less ice is forming
239 00:23:38 and the summers arelonger and longer,
240 00:23:41 millions of adéliesare disappearing
241 00:23:44 at the rate of 12to 20% each year.
242 00:23:48 The biggest threatis the loss of krill,
243 00:23:51 which have declinedin the Southern ocean
244 00:23:53 by 80% since the 1970s
245 00:23:56 due to warming watersand overfishing.
246 00:24:02 Bill Fraser estimatesthat by 2021,
247 00:24:06 it's likely there will be no more adéliesat all living along the peninsula.
248 00:24:13 Where are allthe adelies going?
249 00:24:17 Further south, perhaps,where it's colder?
250 00:24:22 Or they're dying off.
251 00:24:35 In the past 50 years,
252 00:24:36 average air temperaturesalong the peninsula
253 00:24:39 have risen by four to ninedegrees fahrenheit,
254 00:24:43 making it one of the fastestwarming regions on earth.
255 00:24:48 The temperature of theocean is warming, too,
256 00:24:53 which means less sea ice,
257 00:24:56 more evaporationand more rain.
258 00:25:03 The result is that ice alongthe edges of the peninsula
259 00:25:07 is disappearing.
260 00:25:09 In some places, very fast.
261 00:25:15 Nearly three decades ago,
262 00:25:17 scientists predicted thatthe effect of global warming
263 00:25:19 would be felt firstin the polar regions.
264 00:25:23 They warned that one of the firstsigns of human-caused climate change
265 00:25:28 would be the collapse of theantarctic peninsula's bordering ice,
266 00:25:32 which is exactlywhat is happening today.
267 00:25:38 There are 10massive ice shelves
268 00:25:40 scatteredaround the continent.
269 00:25:43 In the past 30 years,
270 00:25:45 two along the peninsulahave vanished completely.
271 00:25:49 In march 2002,
272 00:25:51 scientists watched the 500billion-ton Larsen ice shelf
273 00:25:56 shatter into thousandsof tiny icebergs.
274 00:26:01 And in march 2008,
275 00:26:03 a sheet of icethe size of Manhattan,
276 00:26:06 broke off the Wilkins shelf.
277 00:26:13 Each summer season,
278 00:26:15 cliffs covered by icefor hundreds of centuries
279 00:26:17 are newly exposed.
280 00:26:24 As sea ice recedes,new islands emerge.
281 00:26:31 On some rocksalong the coastline,
282 00:26:33 there is evidence of somethingvery, very foreign here.
283 00:26:39 Plants.
284 00:26:45 What is happening sodramatically, so quickly,
285 00:26:48 to these shelves
286 00:26:50 suggests it is possible therest of the peninsula's ice
287 00:26:53 may deteriorate more rapidlythan anyone predicted.
288 00:27:00 Today, Antarctica's ice
289 00:27:02 and much of its marinelife are at some risk
290 00:27:05 as the edges of the continentcontinue to adjust,
291 00:27:08 to evolve, to warm.
292 00:27:31 Bowermaster". Since man first seteyes on the antarctic continent
293 00:27:33 nearly 200 years ago,
294 00:27:35 he's wonderedabout its future.
295 00:27:38 Whether it would defeathis efforts to conquer it
296 00:27:41 or succumb eventually to thepower and numbers of humankind.
297 00:27:46 We are nowlearning the answers.
298 00:27:55 The remote continent with thereputation as rugged and foreboding
299 00:28:00 turns out to bea fragile ecosystem
300 00:28:02 that needs to bewatched and protected.
301 00:28:14 Antarctica'sice and its treaty
302 00:28:16 have long prevented the exploitation ofthe fossil fuels and precious minerals
303 00:28:21 that lie beneath it.
304 00:28:32 Some believe there may bevast fields of coal,
305 00:28:35 iron ore, natural gas and oil,
306 00:28:39 even diamonds beneath its ice.
307 00:28:46 The treaty also says
308 00:28:47 that the national claims madeby seven countries
309 00:28:50 early in the twentieth century
310 00:28:52 are not to be recognized.
311 00:28:55 Yet today, some countriesare reasserting old claims
312 00:29:01 while others aremaking new ones.
313 00:29:05 One day soon, there will belots of national competition
314 00:29:09 over exactly who ownswhat in Antarctica,
315 00:29:12 just as we're seeing now in thearctic as its ice disappears.
316 00:29:19 As we sail furthersouth along the peninsula,
317 00:29:22 the landscapegrows more dramatic.
318 00:29:38 This is frigid,unforgiving Antarctica.
319 00:30:04 Big, rolling icebergsare everywhere.
320 00:30:33 In the distance,we spy a beautiful, rare,
321 00:30:36 200-foot-tall archcarved by wind and wave
322 00:30:41 out of a giant iceberg.
323 00:31:24 Arches like thisare extremely rare.
324 00:31:27 None of us on the boat, longexperienced in Antarctica,
325 00:31:31 have ever seenone quite like this,
326 00:31:34 and have neverwitnessed one collapse.
327 00:31:37 To me, it is bothmesmerizing and touching.
328 00:31:40 An evocative symbol of howAntarctica is changing forever.
329 00:32:00 Sea level is the best perspectivefrom which to ponder the future
330 00:32:04 of Antarctica's ice.
331 00:32:08 There is so much of it around, itseems like the ice will last forever.
332 00:32:12 But along the coastline,
333 00:32:14 the glaciers thesea ice helps protect
334 00:32:16 are receding, shrinking.
335 00:32:25 Whenever I leave Antarctica, I amfilled with both joy and regret.
336 00:32:32 The latter is made endurable
337 00:32:34 because I knowi will keep coming back
338 00:32:36 to this very special andspectacular corner of our planet.
339 00:32:48 As a scene of adventure,
340 00:32:49 the white continenthas no parallel.
341 00:32:52 It is trulya one-of-a-kind place.
342 00:32:59 My hope is that as itsedges continue to change,
343 00:33:03 to warm,
344 00:33:04 we will keepa close eye on them.
345 00:33:06 So that thecontinent's evolution
346 00:33:09 will not result in its demise,
347 00:33:12 and that the number ofAntarctica's ambassadors
348 00:33:15 and protectors will grow.
